Punched in the gut - Surfboardfishing 101720
I came off a left, rode the top, then the bottom dropped out...Damn! The board circled around as I sank, and perfect timing, slammed into my torso as I folded under the pressure and the immense pain. Boom! Ugggghhhh!. Feeling woozy, I sat up, and two (2) seconds before I blinked and looked, A second (2nd) wave slammed my face into the sand, and I had every orifice filled, and I got real pissed... Everyone better get out of my way! I calmed down and realized how fun it was. I have courage, that is great. I have honor, that is best! Those who do not risk, and never fail, are the real losers. They never try, cause they fear a wipe out, so will never know. You can wipe out with me, anytime... You are my brother in arms, and I pick you up, just as the ocean slams us down.